As many people have pointed out to us, spending your honeymoon in South Asia is, depending on how you look at it, odd, interesting, adventurous, or just plain weird. It certainly led to some atypical honeymoon behavior. For the first three weeks of our honeymoon as we hiked the Annapurna trail, we slept in separate twin beds across the room from one another. When we were feeling romantic, Zach would hop across the room in his sleeping bag and we'd lie next to each other and hug. Plus, there's nothing sexier than not showering for days.
Throughout the trip, we loved the range of reactions we heard from locals when we told them we were on our honeymoon. In Nepal, everyone asked, "Is it a love marriage or an arranged marriage?" We'd proudly announce that we were a love marriage, feeling very, well, loving. 80% of the time, they would reply: "Mmm... love marriages never work." Awkward.
In India, everyone from rickshaw drivers to fruit merchants wanted to suss out our marital status. The conversation, directed exclusively at Zach, would go something like this:
"This is your... friend?"
"My wife!"
"Ah..." (looking me over like a nice handbag and then turning back to Zach) "...very good!"
"We are on our honeymoon."
"Honeymoon!" This was followed by big smiles and grasping of hands and general merriment.Then, "I wish you a very happy life and many children. So... enjoy!"
In Rajasthan's villages, there was almost palpable relief that we conformed to their social norm. Avi, our guide on a tour of villages outside Jodphur, explained to us, "At first, when the villagers met tourists who are traveling together but they are not married, the villagers are shocked, I mean really shocked. This is good that you are married, really good. This they can understand."
All over India, Indians expressed surprise that we chose their country for our honeymoon. One lady was truly baffled. She exclaimed, "You came to India for your honeymoon? But Indians go to America for their honeymoon!" In some of India's more romantic destinations, we ran into Indian couples on their honeymoons. In Munnar, Kerala's stunning tea country, we swapped photos with a giddy couple from Tamil Nadu as we paddle-boated around a beautiful lake. They had met the day of their marriage, and their honeymoon was their chance to get to know each other.
Perhaps our most memorable honeymoon response came in Sri Lanka. One day we came home from biking around the ancient ruins of Anurhadaphura and were greeted by the daughter of the guesthouse owners. She explained that they were going to throw a party tonight. There was another couple staying at the four room guesthouse who was celebrating their tenth wedding anniversary. She asked me to come across the yard to their living room at 6pm to get dressed: "You can wear my mother's sari!"
They threw an amazing bash. We were wrapped in bejewelled fabric and the men instructed in the art of wearing a Sri Lankan sarong. During dinner, were were serenaded by a musician and for dessert... cake! As we fed each other bits of cake (a ritual we had skipped during our actual wedding), we felt as though we were getting married all over again. This time we danced in the muggy tropical air, to the sound of Sri Lankan baile and buzzing cicadas, with the gentle heat of curry in our mouths and cool painted concrete beneath our bare feet.
On this, the last day of our trip, we are savoring great memories. Thank you, South Asia!
Throughout the trip, we loved the range of reactions we heard from locals when we told them we were on our honeymoon. In Nepal, everyone asked, "Is it a love marriage or an arranged marriage?" We'd proudly announce that we were a love marriage, feeling very, well, loving. 80% of the time, they would reply: "Mmm... love marriages never work." Awkward.
In India, everyone from rickshaw drivers to fruit merchants wanted to suss out our marital status. The conversation, directed exclusively at Zach, would go something like this:
"This is your... friend?"
"My wife!"
"Ah..." (looking me over like a nice handbag and then turning back to Zach) "...very good!"
"We are on our honeymoon."
"Honeymoon!" This was followed by big smiles and grasping of hands and general merriment.Then, "I wish you a very happy life and many children. So... enjoy!"
In Rajasthan's villages, there was almost palpable relief that we conformed to their social norm. Avi, our guide on a tour of villages outside Jodphur, explained to us, "At first, when the villagers met tourists who are traveling together but they are not married, the villagers are shocked, I mean really shocked. This is good that you are married, really good. This they can understand."
All over India, Indians expressed surprise that we chose their country for our honeymoon. One lady was truly baffled. She exclaimed, "You came to India for your honeymoon? But Indians go to America for their honeymoon!" In some of India's more romantic destinations, we ran into Indian couples on their honeymoons. In Munnar, Kerala's stunning tea country, we swapped photos with a giddy couple from Tamil Nadu as we paddle-boated around a beautiful lake. They had met the day of their marriage, and their honeymoon was their chance to get to know each other.
Perhaps our most memorable honeymoon response came in Sri Lanka. One day we came home from biking around the ancient ruins of Anurhadaphura and were greeted by the daughter of the guesthouse owners. She explained that they were going to throw a party tonight. There was another couple staying at the four room guesthouse who was celebrating their tenth wedding anniversary. She asked me to come across the yard to their living room at 6pm to get dressed: "You can wear my mother's sari!"
They threw an amazing bash. We were wrapped in bejewelled fabric and the men instructed in the art of wearing a Sri Lankan sarong. During dinner, were were serenaded by a musician and for dessert... cake! As we fed each other bits of cake (a ritual we had skipped during our actual wedding), we felt as though we were getting married all over again. This time we danced in the muggy tropical air, to the sound of Sri Lankan baile and buzzing cicadas, with the gentle heat of curry in our mouths and cool painted concrete beneath our bare feet.
On this, the last day of our trip, we are savoring great memories. Thank you, South Asia!
2 comments:
Evocative, great piece. Feeding my excitement for my own travels!
It's been wonderful to read your stories throughout the trip! I love that each post has given a glimpse into a different way of seeing the world.
I can't believe that it's coming to a close. It seems so short for you to have done so much - as the everyday days and weeks here feel like they have come and gone so quickly.
It's all incredibly inspiring. And, as corny as it is to say, while this journey is coming to an end, you still only gone a short way on your journey together through life :)
- Zan
Post a Comment